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When painting miniatures the following ratios has worked for me: 80% theme colour/pattern 15% border color to seperate different areas 5% accent color to catch eye attention I wonder if you could apply this to model making or if you're doing it already.

Great video - nice and easy -I'll try that as i have the same problem after 6 failed prints. I'm just a NOOB.

I think,about 38 years ago I bought the exact same one, just in orange 🙂It served me well for 27 years, and during that time I had to change the clamps only once.

Upvoted BUT… Using the cable tie as a strain relief is good practice. Glad you got rid of the ragged edges on the hole, many people forget that and end up inadvertently cutting the cable tie off on those sharp edges. The terminals are indeed way too large. The way you crimped them on does not maximize contact between the wire and the terminal. You should take that apart and use the proper size terminals and crimp them on to the wire such that both “wings” curl down and bite into the wire, pressing it into the body of the terminal. Yes, that method still needs strain relief. You can buy kits with several sizes of terminals and a crimping tool that will seat them correctly. The way you did it will result in limiting the current the charger can deliver while heating the terminals unnecessarily. If you’re using it for a relatively low current application like very small scale plating the way you did it is just fine, same for trickle charging a car battery. However full charging current will not be available and as I said they will get hot. Ask me how I know all of this.

That was as good as anything on the Repair Shop.

Was that Rain I hear at 21;50? Another great video!

Salut my friend super car super video subscribe subscribe

So an MX-5 NC....for a first car wow....

If I need to repaint it, I can use model remover. Is it possible to wash away the paint that was applied?

The lines of the panels are gigantic. In reality there would be about 2 inches between panels.

Good Stuff I live in Canada and been building Airfix models since I was a teen LOVE IT I am now 60 years young just too bad there are No Airfix 1/72 scale models of Canadian soldiers... My Dad , Mom and numerous Uncles served in WW2 . Keep up the Great You tube videos on diorama building Cheers Jeff Burns

Very Nice the only thing missing on the aircraft is the three 3 white stripes on the wings meaning an Allied plane used during the D Day Invasion

What brand is your blade?

Wow, great job!!

Nice one. Couple of other things: 1. You can get pre-cut mask sets for fairly recent kits from big online retailers, and they're not that expensive: usually £3-£5. They often include perfectly circular wheel hub masks too, which makes painting the tyres much easier. (I know he mentioned it right at the end). Always try to get one that specifically says it's for the same manufacturer as your kit: you'd be surprised how much variation there is between supposedly "identical" models from different manufacturers! Having said that, if you can't get the exact one it's still worth trying one for a different kit, but be aware that you might have to adapt it slightly. 2. You can get masking fluid (the Humbrol version is called Maskol) that you paint on. It forms a rubbery film when dry that peels off once you've finished painting. It's not as reliable or easy as tape, but it can be useful for particularly fiddly bits. You have to be particularly careful around it with airbrushes because the fine, high pressure jet can lift the edge of it or drive paint underneath it.

Nearly lost the will to live doing a 1/72 helldiver canopy! Nice video.

Best tutorial 🦾👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

seen people use parafilm too !!! and its cheap , never used it but seemingly its easier to cut

The torch thing was a great help.

Isn't White tiger was closer to tiger P than tiger 1H?

Nice chat 🙂

Blasphemy!!!!! You don't know Vanna White???? Your visa should be revoked immediately 🙂

It's very nice to have heard the missus ❤Oh, and thanks for the recipe!

Yes

That was interesting 😂

3 Schools and a Crematorium ... one of my favourite films of all time.

It should be an Apathy of Cats.

I like these little chats with Katie. My athletic prowess is limited to winning the triple jump in a school Sports Day. I was the only one competing in that event.

My daughter is 14 and in year 9 too, so I'm very used to this kind of interaction! They do come out with some gems don't they lol.

A GLARING or a CLOWDER. Both terms are correct when talking about a group of cats.

The collective noun for cats is a clowder.

Is there an option to install a diferent stock?

Love videos where guys get creative with anything and everything to hand... I've seen some genius hacks over the last few years

Thanks for the advice, this started to happen on new FEP, don’t know if it is the brand but mostly happens on small 1/64 prints so, will give it a try with PTFE spray

what, no "hello bird"!? somewhat disappointed. :)

Very well done. Most impressive diorama well constructed and a pleasure to watch. Many thanks for sharing.

I holly wish you could have added a parts list.

Cool idea simple but effective thanks giving me ideas to build a a few small dioramas that you can put together to make up a big on so its all interchangeable

I have an unopened bottle of scenery glue but when I've used it all, I'll refill it using this recipe.

Well done Sir, even with the help from your Bride and two spawnlings.

By a thoroughly rotten coincidence, I watched this just 10 minutes after I mixed myself up some scenery glue - or, at least, watered down PVA. It's a rotten coincidence because I hadn't thought to add isopropyl alcohol to improve the flow. Still, I have a gallon of PVA, so I can just pour some out & add the alcohol... My PVA is builder's grade - will that need more thinning or less? Your medium looked pretty thick.

Knockout presentation really enjoyed the whole thing - very well done.

Hello SteamGeeyzer and Bunny Kitten!

Yes, we can hear you

Yes, your on

I'd never consider using Contact adhesive for that application. #1 reason being the solvent triggered multiple micro heart attacks when I was exposed to it in a workplace. #2 reason is it relies on surface area, obviously lacking on 3 sides of that plastic sheet. #3 reason, as you say, One chance to locate it correctly on that highly flexible material. Mind you, you can apply the sheet when the adhesive is still wet. The far better adhesive is polyurethane.. the type used by wood workers if they have low skill and so, very loose joints. This adhesive is very strong and ideal for dissimilar materials. As it cures it it produces a foam that fills voids. This deals with the low contact area around the 3 'lacking' sides as the adhesive expands and covers wider areas than where a thin bead is applied around the edges of the plastic sheet. AND, you wouldn't be fluffing around gluing off-cuts to 'lacking' areas. Apply a thin bead around all edges and a light trace bead on the flat area of the plastic sheet. Wipe the timber sheet (or any material like metal or ceramic) with a water damp rag. This triggers the adhesive cure. Place the sheet down, locate correctly and spring clamp down where needed. Place a weighted sheet cut to size over the flat area. Use gloves because this stuff will stick to anything and spreads easily on sticky fingers. The cleanup solvent is mineral turps. This will fully cure in 24hrs. Any excess foam that my form around the edges can be easily carved off with a sharp knife... even sculptured.

I just finish watching you build the diorama! Very interesting! About the Victory longboat: The Victory naval museum intendent was not very updated about the hoisting rigging details on the ship(!).

I have just enjoyed watching your diarama building, very interesting indeed!

Nice work! greetings to your daughter for inspiring you to the airplane detail! (I did the same thing to a longboat on the Heller Victory 1/100 model). Thank you!